Q. When is the best time to water my lawn?
A. In the early morning hours unless other circumstances such as seeding, turf renovation,
or the syringing of turf to minimize the incidence of fungus.
Q. How much moisture does my lawn need?
A. Most lawns need from 1” to 2” of moisture per week during the hot and windy summer
months. During the cooler spring and fall seasons, ½” of moisture per week is sufficient.
There are entire books written on soil absorption rates and plant coefficients,
so we normally recommend some general guidelines coupled with common sense. Watch
our web site and newsletter for watering tips.
Q. How frequently should I water my lawn?
A. It is a good idea to water less frequently with longer watering times. For example,
water on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday long enough to put down at least a ½ “
of water each day, depending on the season. Again, there are entire books written
on soil absorption rates and plant coefficients, so we normally recommend some general
guidelines coupled with common sense. Watch our web site and newsletter for watering
tips.
Q. What is the frequency of the applications?
A. The six applications occur every four to six weeks, depending upon the start
of the season and certain other climatological conditions.
Q. Do I need to water?
A. Yes. The schedule of watering may change, depending on the product applied and
time of year, but irrigation is always required to activate and move the product.
We discuss irrigation practices throughout the year in our newsletter.
Q. How long must I keep my pets off the yard after you fertilize?
A. We recommend that the applied products be watered in and dry before you allow
extensive use of the treated area by pets or children. If the pet is going out and
coming right in, we would anticipate no problem with that. If we are using a product
that has a higher risk for exposure, we will coordinate the application to maintain
a safe environment for you, your family, and your pets.
Q. What can I do about fungus? It comes back every year.
A. To minimize the damage that fungus can cause, we recommend that you employ correct
cultural practices in the part you play in caring for your lawn. Aerate the yard
at least once a year. Aeration reduces soil compaction. Mow regularly with a sharp
blade. This reduces thatch build up and minimizes injury to individual plants. To
achieve optimal benefit from irrigation, water early in the day (preferably before
noon) when the temperature and wind are at their lowest. Depending on the amount
of rainfall, depth of irrigation as well as frequency of irrigation will vary. Your
turf may require treatment with a fungicide in order to control the disease process.
Q. Why is my neighbor's lawn a different color than mine?
A. There is no single answer to this question. The types of grass plants present
in the lawn, soil conditions, and the amounts and types of fertilizer used are all
variables. While a difference in the color of your lawn compared to another lawn
may be an indication of a problem, it may be nothing more than a reflection of the
variables mentioned above, alone or in combination. We can perform soil test to
determine if any macro or micronutrients are missing that might affect color.
Q. Are the chemicals disturbed by mowing?
A. We prefer that mowing wait until after the product(s) are watered in and dry.
If you must mow, do not "bag" the lawn.
Q. What does the pre-emergent control?
A. Our product is formulated to control crab grass and certain other grassy weeds.
The control is achieved with two successive spring applications. The plants germinate
and the pre-emergent product then acts against the roots and shoots of the plant
material. The product does not control broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions or nutsedge.
Q. Why do I have dandelions?
A. Dandelions are winter annuals whose seeds spread on the wind, taking root in
bare areas of turf. The best defense against dandelions is a dense stand of healthy
turf. When they are found in the turf, they are best controlled by a post-emergent
product in the fall of the year. Post-emergent applications at other times of the
year may be successful in destroying the visible parts of the plant which can be
of some help.
Q. Why do some companies spray the entire yard for weeds?
A. There are different strategies that lawn care companies use to control weeds.
We have always supported the practice of using the proper amount of chemical to
treat the infected area. Have you ever had an x-ray for a broken arm? Did the doctor
take an x-ray of your entire body or just the broken arm? We use the same theory.
In most cases, spot spraying individual weeds provides the control we are seeking.
We will spray the entire property only if the concentration of weed material merits
that approach.
Q. What height will you mow my lawn?
A. During the spring season, we will cut the grass to a height of 2-3/4” to 3” to
keep the grass short during the rainy season. In the hotter summer months we will
cut the grass to a height of 3” to 4” which will allow the turf to shade and cool
the roots of the plant. As the end of the mowing season nears, we will again mow
shorter to deter winterkill.
Q. Why should I mulch?
A. Mulching will recycle the turf’s nutrients to the soil.
Q. Will your large equipment harm the turf?
A. Our equipment efficiently and effectively cuts the grass, leaving the yard with
a professional appearance.
Q. Will your crews service my lawn on the same day each week?
A. We will always try to service your lawn on the same day each week; however, weather
can delay our crews. During the beginning of the year and the end of the year, the
schedule may be adjusted due to the needs of the turf. Twice weekly mowing is also
available for accounts that require this service.
Q. When can I stop mowing?
A. Turf’s natural growth cycle slows down in the fall prior to becoming dormant
in the winter. As growth slows, mowing frequency diminishes. Once growth ceases,
mowing is no longer required.
Q. Why should my lawn be aerated?
A. Aeration loosens compacted soil and increases the availability of water and nutrients;
it enhances oxygen levels in the soil, stimulating root growth and enhancing the
activity of thatch-decomposing organisms; it reduces water runoff; and it increases
the lawn’s drought tolerance and improves its overall health. We suggest that your
lawn be aerated twice each year.
Q. Do you flag irrigation heads when aerating?
A. Unless other arrangements are made, CM’s will flag your irrigation heads if CM’s
aerates your lawn. The irrigation heads should always be flagged before aerating.
Q. Why should I aerate before over seeding my lawn?
A. Aerating will open up the soil for the seed, increasing the percentage of seed
that will contact the soil, increasing seed germination rates.
Q. Why should my lawn be power raked?
A. Power raking will reduce thatch, the accumulation of dead and decomposing grass
material. Small amounts of thatch can improve wear tolerance and surface saliency,
and reduce water loss and soil temperature fluctuations. Excessive thatch reduces
the effectiveness of fertilizers, watering and pest controls and provides a habitat
for disease and insects. Power raking will also help restore the turf following
harsh winters. We suggest that your turf be power raked if thatch accumulation exceeds
one-half inch.
Q. How often should my lawn be power raked?
A. Generally, when thatch accumulation exceeds one-half inch.
Perennial Bed Maintenance
Q. When is the best time to prune perennials?
A. Most perennials are pruned back after the first initial spring bloom and some
perennials are not pruned at all. Perennials are meant to provide color, whether
it is green foliage or shades of a bloom, all year round. It is normal for groupings
of perennials to grow together in a landscape bed.
Q. What should I expect from a bed maintenance visit?
A. If plants are small, than any grooming that takes place on a regular basis should
go largely unnoticed. The goal of
bi-weekly
bed maintenance is for the plants within a bed to be properly pruned
and weed content kept to minimum. Some plants have a natural wild look to them.
The goal with these plants is to keep them from invading the plant space of others
while allowing them to keep their native appearance.
Q. What should I do about rodents or other pests eating my plants?
A. With insects, it is a simple as spraying on an insecticide product such as Diaznon.
If rodents, such as rabbits, are the problem, there are a variety of cures that
can be tried to varying degrees of success. You can call us regarding your specific
rodent problem or we also suggest a call to the Douglas County Extension Agency.
You can also visit their website at http://douglas-sarpy.unl.edu/.
Q. Am I over-watering or under-watering my shrubs and perennials?
A. If a plant is under watered, the plant roots will be brown and the texture of
the leaf will crusty and flake off at touch. If the plant is being over watered,
the roots will be yellowish and the texture of the leaf will still be smooth but
wilted nonetheless. There can be other factors such as soil content or solar exposure
that can have detrimental effects on plants as well.
Q. When should my shrubs be pruned?
A. Non-blooming shrubs can be pruned beginning in mid-May, and continuing through
October or any time undesirable growth is present. Sometimes the best time to prune
non-blooming, woody, spring shrubs is close to winter, when you can see crossing
branches, etc. Blooming shrubs should be pruned a few weeks after the bloom period.
Pruning shrubs at the wrong time of year will potentially prune off the next set
of blooms.
Q. Why are there brown spots in my shrubs?
A. Brown spots in certain shrubs, especially fitzers and yews, can be caused by
winter burn. Winter burn occurs when the shrubs are pruned close to the occurrence
of a hard freeze and the exposed stems and foliage are shocked. If the brown sections
are pruned back, they will soon fill in with greenery.