Occasionally a tree will leaf out in the spring but the leaves don’t fully mature and the tree dies a short time later. This can be confusing and frustrating for a home owner, especially if we are experiencing a “normal” spring with adequate rainfall. There are several potential reasons for the tree’s failure; however, the failure usually has more to do with issues that had been affecting the tree for a year or more before it finally fizzled out.

During the growing season, trees produce carbohydrates to be used as food for energy to perform the necessary tasks of growing and thriving. At the same time, the tree is also storing a portion of the food in reserves for later use. During the winter months, growing and other processes almost come to a halt. The tree is not producing much food, nor is it using much energy.

When the temperatures begin to warm in the spring and the buds begin to swell, the tree uses use more energy than it will at any other time of year. In order for the tree to have enough energy to leaf out in the spring, it must draw an incredible amount of stored food from its reserves. Once the new leaves have had time to mature, they will start to produce food for energy once again. At this point, the tree can stop using its reserve supply of food. As the leaves continue to grow and photosynthesis is taking place, the tree will begin to store food once again and build up the reserve supply.

By knowing this cycle, we know the plant must be healthy enough to manufacture, store, and use adequate nutrients throughout the year. If it isn't, a tree may have just enough food stored to begin leafing out, but not enough to continue growing. In some cases, you will end up with dead branches or even a dead tree.

Here are a few reasons a tree may run out of nutrients by depleting its reserves:

• · It is improperly planted and trying to overcome poor growing conditions
• · Severe pruning( more than 1/3 of the tree is removed at one time)
• · Extensive storm damage
• · Loss of healthy leaf surface due to disease or insect infestation
• · Late spring freeze that results in the tree leafing out twice

Proper plant care, including correctly watering and fertilizing your tree, can prevent some of these issues from becoming a problem.

CM’s has a four step tree program to promote healthy root growth and to prevent insects and diseases from plaguing your trees. Contact our arborist for more details.

By following a few important guidelines, you can safely landscape around an established tree.

Avoid soil build up against the bark of the tree. Raising the soil level by just a few inches can cause the trunk to rot. This will cause the tree to decline and eventually die. If possible, try to avoid adding soil to any area underneath the tree canopy. If you must add soil, use the smallest amount possible, taking care to keep it a few feet away from the trunk. Mounding soil on top of woody roots will have a similar effect to piling it against the bark. The wood protecting the root will rot, potentially cutting off a large source of water and nutrients to the tree.

When it comes time to plant, dig with care! Avoid damaging the roots as much as possible. Keep in mind that by severing a root close to the trunk, you are also cutting off many tiny feeder roots that are connected to the one root that is cut.

Using about 2-3” of mulch will not hurt the tree. However, do not add mulch right up against the trunk. It is important to keep good airflow around the base of the tree.

Q.  Should I water my trees during the winter months?

A.  During the late fall and early winter months tree roots are actively growing, even when there are no leaves on the trees. Extended periods of mild, dry weather can damage the root system. Evergreen trees are especially prone to winter damage because they continue to lose moisture through their needles all year. Trees should be watered once every 20-30 days during extended dry periods without snow cover. Watering should only be done when air and soil temperatures are 40 degrees or higher. Watering mid day is best so that the soil can absorb the water before it freezes. Lay a garden hose under the drip line of the tree and let the water slowly run until it begins to pool. Repeat in several different spots around the tree. If the tree is on a slope or hill and the water runs off, a sprinkler head attached to the hose can be used.

Here are two websites to help determine current soil temperatures in your area: http://gretnawx.net/index.php and http://cropwatch.unl.edu/web/cropwatch/cropwatchsoiltemperature

Do you have a question for our arborist? We hope so! Submit your questions on our website at http://www.cmscustomlawn.com/Pages/AskTheArborist. Questions and answers will be regularly updated on our web page.

February is a great time to start organizing your vegetable garden. As the amount of daylight slowly increases each day, you can begin to consider which veggies you want to plant this season, how many you will have space for, and if you will be starting any from seed.  Many seasoned gardeners find that keeping a journal is a helpful way to remember what worked well the year before and what they would like to do differently for next season.  You can start by considering three important factors.

Location: The area should be exposed to at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Taller plants, such as tomatoes, corn, and trellised plants should be planted on the north side of the garden so that the smaller plants will not be shaded by the taller ones.

Spacing: The size of your garden plot will determine how many plants you are able to grow in that space. Your vegetable plants will need plenty of room above and below ground to grow and mature. Most vegetable plants are sold with tags that will list the spacing requirements.  Generally, small plants such as garlic and green onions need about 3-4 inches between plants on all sides. Vegetables such as chard, lettuce, and cabbage need about 6-9 inches between plants. Larger vegetable plants, including tomatoes and peppers, need about two feet of space. Using a trellis is a great way to conserve valuable garden space. Vegetables that can be trellised include peas, beans, cucumbers, small squash, small melons, and eggplants.

Companion Plants: Companion planting is the practice of planting vegetables alongside certain plants that will attract bees and other beneficial insects to the garden while deterring pests. Planting sunflowers near the garden will distract ants and aphids. Whiteflies are a common pest in vegetable gardens, but if you plant one of the stronger scented varieties of marigolds or basil they will repel whiteflies, nematodes, and more. In a similar fashion, chrysanthemums and dahlias will repel root nematodes and other crawlers.

Enjoy the warm weather!

After your fall clean-up is complete for the year, it is time to winterize your tools so that they are sharp, sanitized, and easy to find come spring.

1. Clean all soil and debris off tools.
2. Sanitize tools, especially those that have been used on diseased plant material.
3. Sharpen blades of hoes, pruners, spades, loppers, and saws.
4. Make any necessary repairs.
5. Organize tools and equipment so that it is easily accessible for spring.

Remove soil or vegetation from all tools using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Wire brushes marketed to clean grills are handy because they usually include a scraper. Once everything has been cleaned and dried, lubricate all tool pivot points and springs. Finally, spray all bare metal parts and cutting edges with penetrating oil such as WD-40 to prevent rust.

When sanitizing garden tools, the usual ratio is a 10 percent solution or 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Using a 1 cup measuring cup, this would be 1 cup bleach to 9 cups water. Use a heavy solution of 3 parts bleach and 2 parts water to disinfect tools used on plants that are known to be diseased. Sanitizing once per year for tools such as shovel and hoes is sufficient, but tools such as pruners and loppers should be sanitized after each use. This process with help prevent the spread of fungus, disease, insects, and insect eggs.

Check all tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Replace or repair broken handles and other bent or broken parts. Wheelbarrows, carts and wagons may also need some attention before winter. Clean them thoroughly and touch up paint chips with spray paint to prevent exposed steel from rusting.

With your array of garden tools and supplies, the key to great garage storage and organization is getting things off the floor and onto the wall. A pegboard attached to a wall is a great place to store garden tools when not in use. Hardware stores and home improvement centers have a variety of hooks and wall brackets for tools of all shapes and sizes. Don’t forget the hoses and other watering aids. Before storing hoses, nozzles and other sprinkler attachments away for the winter, drain all the water from them and store in a dry location. Hose supports or reels prevent sagging and kinking. Regardless of your preferred storage method, having tools ready to go in the spring will make those early season chores that much easier.

Have a great Thanksgiving!

Rachael and Tobias

The telltale signs are here. First comes football season. Then the weather is absurdly amazing (we can dream that every autumn always starts out beautiful). Leaves start to fall. It is nearly time to give our landscape beds some attention.

After several hard frosts:

-Cut perennials back to soil level and remove debris.

-Consider which plants performed well and which did not. Make a note of any changes to be made it the spring.

-Remove debris from any annual plantings in the landscape.

-If we have a fall with limited rainfall, give the landscape a deep soak to prevent stress on the plants as they go into winter.

-Add a one inch layer of mulch to help conserve soil moisture and protect the root systems, especially for newly planted landscapes.

Removing debris such as leaves and other dead plant material from the landscape will prevent the spread of certain fungi that can overwinter on dead plant material and then continue to spread and infect new leaf tissue during the following spring. Taking the extra step to remove debris will also eliminate potential nesting areas created by unwanted critters.

You may want to consider leaving ornamental grass, coneflower, and black-eyed susan in the landscape over the winter months. Not only do they add structure and interest to the winter landscape, but they are also a food source for some native birds. If you decide to wait until spring to cut these perennials back, this should be done no later than mid- May to allow for the new growth to emerge.

Enjoy the Fall!

Rachael and Tobias

Have you seen dried floral arrangements and wondered "How did they do that?" You, too, can preserve the beautiful flowers you nurture in your own landscape. Here's how:

1. Decide what flowers you want to harvest and how you to use them. Dried flowers can be used in floral arrangements for a long-lasting centerpiece; they can be used as decorating accents, potpourri, and dried herbs to be used for cooking year round.
2. Cut flowers when they are just opening and petals are new. Flowers that are older will lose their petals as they dry.
3. Suspend flowers upside down in a cool, dark location. It will take 2-3 weeks for flowers to dry completely.
4. After flowers have dried, spray with a fine mist hairspray or a fine mist floral spray found in craft stores.
5. Display in a location where they can be enjoyed, but are out of bright sunlight. Replace seasonally.

Just a few of the flowers that dry nicely:

Blanket Flower, Straw Flower, Statice, Larkspur, Hydrangea, Black Eyed Susan, Lavender; Millet, Yarrow, Rose, Russian Sage, and Rosemary.

You can your microwave to speed up the drying process. You will need silica gel crystals that can be purchased from a craft store.  Place a layer of crystals 1-2” deep in the bottom of a glass container.  Place the stem of the flower in the crystals.  Cover the entire flower with silica crystals.  Microwave on high for 2-5 minutes depending on the type of flower.  Let the glass container set for 30 minutes.  Gently remove the silica crystals from the container and brush crystals from flower with a small paintbrush.  Flowers can then be sealed with a fine mist hairspray or sealant found in the floral department at your local craft store.

Enjoy September!

No centerpiece is as lovely as a vase of freshly cut flowers.  Sure, you can pick up a bunch at most grocery stores, but who knows how long they've been sitting in that tub of water.  Wouldn't it be great to be able to walk into your own garden and cut a beautiful bouquet?  Here's how...

Site Selection: Choose a site with well-drained soil, plenty of sun and easy access to water. Prepare the soil by clearing the garden area of grass and weeds. Work organic matter, such as compost, into the soil.

Plant Selection: Decide on a color palette. It is best to include plants with different textures and of different sizes. Don’t forget the greens! Add foliage plants for color and texture.

Harvesting the Flowers: Harvest flowers in the morning if possible. Cool air is better than hot afternoon sun for preserving fresh flowers. Use sharp scissors or cutting shears. If possible, choose flower stalks with a few buds that have not yet opened to prolong the life of your arrangement. Once you harvest your flowers, it is a good idea to give each stem a fresh cut just before placing them in the vase. It is best to make the fresh cut under running water to prevent air bubbles from getting into the vascular system of the stem and blocking water uptake. Cutting the stems at an angle will help them absorb more water. Remove any foliage that will be below the water line and place in warm water.

Caring for your Arrangement: The arrangement should be placed in a cool location, away from heat sources such as direct sunlight from a window, an oven, a heat vent, etc. The cooler the temperatures, the longer your bouquet will stay fresh. Using a floral preservative solution similar to the packets that come with flower arrangements can also help prolong the life of your arrangement. It is important to keep the water free from any leaves or plant material. Decaying plant material will clog the vascular system of the flower stems and cause them to wilt very quickly. Keep an eye on the water level of the vase. Fresh cut flowers can take up water at a surprisingly fast rate. Refill the vase before it runs out of water.

Common Cut-Flower Plants:                                                                                                                      Primary flowers: sunflowers, gerbera daisies, spider mums, roses, hydrangea, lilies.                                                                                                       Accent flowers: alstromeria, delphinium, mini carnations, larkspur, asters, gladiolus, goldenrod.                                                                                        Greenery: Lamb’s Ear, lavender, Bells of Ireland, ornamental grass.

Enjoy your cut flowers!

Rachael and Tobias

Ouch! Just like when you are pinched, pinching plant material is done by using your thumb and forefinger. In this case, it doesn’t hurt. A clean, sharp pair of hand pruners will also work. You can either pinch off just the new leaves or you can take off several inches. Both will encourage branching. Most herbs are grown for their foliage. By increasing branching you will increase leaf production, making the plant more productive for you.

By pinching off the flowers on a young annual, you will encourage the plant to develop a better root system. This will lead to a healthier plant that is more drought tolerant and disease and insect resistant. Pinching of annuals is usually done very early in the season by growers when the plants are still growing in the greenhouses. However, if you are growing annuals from seed, you may want to pinch off the first several flower buds.

Pinching back perennials such as mums and asters will increase branching and flower production, making it a more compact, attractive plant. Asters and mums can both be pinched back several times before July 4^th, or they can simply be cut in half around early June and will still flower in the fall. Beebalm is another perennial that will benefit from pinching. It can be cut back by one half in early to mid- May to encourage a more compact, full shape. This will delay the bloom period, but only by a week or two. ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum is another perennial that will appreciate some pinching. This plant tends to flop over quite readily before its flowers open. By pinching back before July 4^th, you will help the plant to stay standing throughout the season.

Other plants that benefit from pinching: Herbs such as basil and rosemary will increase branching and leaf production after pinching. Some perennials that will benefit from pinching include chrysanthemum, tall garden phlox, yarrow, and Russian sage.

Not all plants will appreciate pinching. Leave columbine, astilbe, delphinium, daylily, coral bell, hosta, iris, foxglove and dianthus to their own devices and they will be fine.

Have a great day in the garden and don’t forget the sunscreen!

Rachael and Tobias

After several years, some ornamental grasses have a tendency to thin or die out in the middle or outgrow their space. When this begins to happen, it is best to split the grass into two or more clumps. The best time of the year to split grasses is early spring as growing conditions such as soil temperature, sunlight and precipitation are optimal for successful transplantation and regrowth.

Before you begin, think ahead to cleanup and transplant. Tie off the plant every eight to ten inches so the debris is easily gathered for disposal. Prepare the transplant sites by digging holes and adding appropriate soil amenities such as compost and fertilizer. Trim the grass to a height of four to five inches. Dig around the entire plant with a shovel and pry it out of the ground. Once you have the plant out of the ground, lay it on its side. Next, determine the number of clumps you need or want. Using a sharp shovel or hand saw, divide the plant into the desired amount of clumps. Replant one clump back in the original spot and plant the other clumps in the prepared locations, making sure the crown of the plants are at or slightly above ground level. Water in thoroughly and cover with about three inches of mulch.

If splitting produces more grass clumps than you need, share the plant with family, friends, neighbors and coworkers. To maintain plant viability, the roots should be covered with soil and kept moist until replanted.

If you’re looking for another spring project, check out our May newsletter’s DIY section on planting spring bulbs. A small investment in time and bulbs now will yield beautiful benefits this summer.

Happy planting!

Rachael and Tobias