Occasionally a tree will leaf out in the spring but the leaves don’t fully mature and the tree dies a short time later. This can be confusing and frustrating for a home owner, especially if we are experiencing a “normal” spring with adequate rainfall. There are several potential reasons for the tree’s failure; however, the failure usually has more to do with issues that had been affecting the tree for a year or more before it finally fizzled out.

During the growing season, trees produce carbohydrates to be used as food for energy to perform the necessary tasks of growing and thriving. At the same time, the tree is also storing a portion of the food in reserves for later use. During the winter months, growing and other processes almost come to a halt. The tree is not producing much food, nor is it using much energy.

When the temperatures begin to warm in the spring and the buds begin to swell, the tree uses use more energy than it will at any other time of year. In order for the tree to have enough energy to leaf out in the spring, it must draw an incredible amount of stored food from its reserves. Once the new leaves have had time to mature, they will start to produce food for energy once again. At this point, the tree can stop using its reserve supply of food. As the leaves continue to grow and photosynthesis is taking place, the tree will begin to store food once again and build up the reserve supply.

By knowing this cycle, we know the plant must be healthy enough to manufacture, store, and use adequate nutrients throughout the year. If it isn't, a tree may have just enough food stored to begin leafing out, but not enough to continue growing. In some cases, you will end up with dead branches or even a dead tree.

Here are a few reasons a tree may run out of nutrients by depleting its reserves:

• · It is improperly planted and trying to overcome poor growing conditions
• · Severe pruning( more than 1/3 of the tree is removed at one time)
• · Extensive storm damage
• · Loss of healthy leaf surface due to disease or insect infestation
• · Late spring freeze that results in the tree leafing out twice

Proper plant care, including correctly watering and fertilizing your tree, can prevent some of these issues from becoming a problem.

CM’s has a four step tree program to promote healthy root growth and to prevent insects and diseases from plaguing your trees. Contact our arborist for more details.

By following a few important guidelines, you can safely landscape around an established tree.

Avoid soil build up against the bark of the tree. Raising the soil level by just a few inches can cause the trunk to rot. This will cause the tree to decline and eventually die. If possible, try to avoid adding soil to any area underneath the tree canopy. If you must add soil, use the smallest amount possible, taking care to keep it a few feet away from the trunk. Mounding soil on top of woody roots will have a similar effect to piling it against the bark. The wood protecting the root will rot, potentially cutting off a large source of water and nutrients to the tree.

When it comes time to plant, dig with care! Avoid damaging the roots as much as possible. Keep in mind that by severing a root close to the trunk, you are also cutting off many tiny feeder roots that are connected to the one root that is cut.

Using about 2-3” of mulch will not hurt the tree. However, do not add mulch right up against the trunk. It is important to keep good airflow around the base of the tree.

Q.  Should I water my trees during the winter months?

A.  During the late fall and early winter months tree roots are actively growing, even when there are no leaves on the trees. Extended periods of mild, dry weather can damage the root system. Evergreen trees are especially prone to winter damage because they continue to lose moisture through their needles all year. Trees should be watered once every 20-30 days during extended dry periods without snow cover. Watering should only be done when air and soil temperatures are 40 degrees or higher. Watering mid day is best so that the soil can absorb the water before it freezes. Lay a garden hose under the drip line of the tree and let the water slowly run until it begins to pool. Repeat in several different spots around the tree. If the tree is on a slope or hill and the water runs off, a sprinkler head attached to the hose can be used.

Here are two websites to help determine current soil temperatures in your area: http://gretnawx.net/index.php and http://cropwatch.unl.edu/web/cropwatch/cropwatchsoiltemperature

Do you have a question for our arborist? We hope so! Submit your questions on our website at http://www.cmscustomlawn.com/Pages/AskTheArborist. Questions and answers will be regularly updated on our web page.