By following a few important guidelines, you can safely landscape around an established tree.

Avoid soil build up against the bark of the tree. Raising the soil level by just a few inches can cause the trunk to rot. This will cause the tree to decline and eventually die. If possible, try to avoid adding soil to any area underneath the tree canopy. If you must add soil, use the smallest amount possible, taking care to keep it a few feet away from the trunk. Mounding soil on top of woody roots will have a similar effect to piling it against the bark. The wood protecting the root will rot, potentially cutting off a large source of water and nutrients to the tree.

When it comes time to plant, dig with care! Avoid damaging the roots as much as possible. Keep in mind that by severing a root close to the trunk, you are also cutting off many tiny feeder roots that are connected to the one root that is cut.

Using about 2-3” of mulch will not hurt the tree. However, do not add mulch right up against the trunk. It is important to keep good airflow around the base of the tree.

Our customers are justifiably proud of their landscapes. We like to work in our gardens and turf. We like others to enjoy them as well. We plant species which attract butterflies, bees, and birds. They add to the attractiveness of our landscape. There are others who often show up uninvited in one sense; but they too, also are most appreciative of the work we do in our landscapes.

We receive a number of calls each spring regarding tracks in the yard as the snow melts. Invariably, the tracks are vole runs. There are three species of voles in Nebraska, but for turf areas, we are probably only dealing with two of the species. In size, they are a little larger than mice with a shorter tail and a stocky build. They have cyclical populations which can range from 25 per acre to as many as 250 per acre. While those numbers seem high, consider the size of your turf area, as well as the fact that cycles are irregular and not sustained at any level for long, before becoming too alarmed. As they are the favorite prey of snakes, owls, coyotes, hawks, weasels and other carnivores, they have a high mortality rate. To compensate for this, they are rather prolific breeders.

The tracks you see in the spring as the snow melts are clipped grass surface runways connecting underground entrances and feeding sites. Voles are active year round, but the runs are less noticeable when turf is actively growing. Voles eat bulbs, the shoot and roots of plants, tree bark, tubers, the seeds of grasses, all of which leads to plant and tree damage, the severity of which varies with the size of the population.

So what does a body do? Doing nothing is always an option. Once turf begins growing, the surface runs usually fill back in. If vole numbers are not large, you may notice no damage. However, if you cannot abide any interlopers, or the ones that are there are doing a number on your plantings, you do have options.

You can modify the habitat by making sure grass is mowed properly and gardens are weeded, especially around trees. This denies them covered access, making them more susceptible to predators.

One can try to exclude them by fencing off expensive trees and plants. This usually works better with smaller gardens. The mesh openings should not exceed one quarter inch, and the fence should be twelve inches high and buried slightly below ground (if you want to fence out rabbits at the same time, go to twenty inches high and four inches below ground). You can also wrap trees with wire or plastics, making sure there are no gaps.

Now, if they have really made you mad, you can hire an assassin; or if you are not too squeamish, you can do the deed yourself. Mouse traps work nicely. Set two in a run, with triggers facing away or one trap perpendicular to the run with the trigger in the run. You can place two traps on either side of an entrance, triggers facing the entrance hole. It may be a good idea to secure the traps to the ground with a nail into the soil. Peanut butter makes great bait.

These are remedies that most people can do. There are other methods best left to a professional.

A great deal of this information comes from the wisdom and experience of Dennis Ferraro, resident herpetologist, and an extension associate professor at the School of Natural Resources at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Dennis is a frequent speaker and instructor at various turf conferences and classes for professionals in the turf industry. He is most entertaining and always eager to help us do a better job of serving you. He will be referenced often by us throughout the year.

Stay tuned.

Chuck Sr.

Q.  Should I water my trees during the winter months?

A.  During the late fall and early winter months tree roots are actively growing, even when there are no leaves on the trees. Extended periods of mild, dry weather can damage the root system. Evergreen trees are especially prone to winter damage because they continue to lose moisture through their needles all year. Trees should be watered once every 20-30 days during extended dry periods without snow cover. Watering should only be done when air and soil temperatures are 40 degrees or higher. Watering mid day is best so that the soil can absorb the water before it freezes. Lay a garden hose under the drip line of the tree and let the water slowly run until it begins to pool. Repeat in several different spots around the tree. If the tree is on a slope or hill and the water runs off, a sprinkler head attached to the hose can be used.

Here are two websites to help determine current soil temperatures in your area: http://gretnawx.net/index.php and http://cropwatch.unl.edu/web/cropwatch/cropwatchsoiltemperature

Do you have a question for our arborist? We hope so! Submit your questions on our website at http://www.cmscustomlawn.com/Pages/AskTheArborist. Questions and answers will be regularly updated on our web page.

February is a great time to start organizing your vegetable garden. As the amount of daylight slowly increases each day, you can begin to consider which veggies you want to plant this season, how many you will have space for, and if you will be starting any from seed.  Many seasoned gardeners find that keeping a journal is a helpful way to remember what worked well the year before and what they would like to do differently for next season.  You can start by considering three important factors.

Location: The area should be exposed to at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Taller plants, such as tomatoes, corn, and trellised plants should be planted on the north side of the garden so that the smaller plants will not be shaded by the taller ones.

Spacing: The size of your garden plot will determine how many plants you are able to grow in that space. Your vegetable plants will need plenty of room above and below ground to grow and mature. Most vegetable plants are sold with tags that will list the spacing requirements.  Generally, small plants such as garlic and green onions need about 3-4 inches between plants on all sides. Vegetables such as chard, lettuce, and cabbage need about 6-9 inches between plants. Larger vegetable plants, including tomatoes and peppers, need about two feet of space. Using a trellis is a great way to conserve valuable garden space. Vegetables that can be trellised include peas, beans, cucumbers, small squash, small melons, and eggplants.

Companion Plants: Companion planting is the practice of planting vegetables alongside certain plants that will attract bees and other beneficial insects to the garden while deterring pests. Planting sunflowers near the garden will distract ants and aphids. Whiteflies are a common pest in vegetable gardens, but if you plant one of the stronger scented varieties of marigolds or basil they will repel whiteflies, nematodes, and more. In a similar fashion, chrysanthemums and dahlias will repel root nematodes and other crawlers.

Enjoy the warm weather!

After your fall clean-up is complete for the year, it is time to winterize your tools so that they are sharp, sanitized, and easy to find come spring.

1. Clean all soil and debris off tools.
2. Sanitize tools, especially those that have been used on diseased plant material.
3. Sharpen blades of hoes, pruners, spades, loppers, and saws.
4. Make any necessary repairs.
5. Organize tools and equipment so that it is easily accessible for spring.

Remove soil or vegetation from all tools using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Wire brushes marketed to clean grills are handy because they usually include a scraper. Once everything has been cleaned and dried, lubricate all tool pivot points and springs. Finally, spray all bare metal parts and cutting edges with penetrating oil such as WD-40 to prevent rust.

When sanitizing garden tools, the usual ratio is a 10 percent solution or 1 part bleach to 9 parts water. Using a 1 cup measuring cup, this would be 1 cup bleach to 9 cups water. Use a heavy solution of 3 parts bleach and 2 parts water to disinfect tools used on plants that are known to be diseased. Sanitizing once per year for tools such as shovel and hoes is sufficient, but tools such as pruners and loppers should be sanitized after each use. This process with help prevent the spread of fungus, disease, insects, and insect eggs.

Check all tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Replace or repair broken handles and other bent or broken parts. Wheelbarrows, carts and wagons may also need some attention before winter. Clean them thoroughly and touch up paint chips with spray paint to prevent exposed steel from rusting.

With your array of garden tools and supplies, the key to great garage storage and organization is getting things off the floor and onto the wall. A pegboard attached to a wall is a great place to store garden tools when not in use. Hardware stores and home improvement centers have a variety of hooks and wall brackets for tools of all shapes and sizes. Don’t forget the hoses and other watering aids. Before storing hoses, nozzles and other sprinkler attachments away for the winter, drain all the water from them and store in a dry location. Hose supports or reels prevent sagging and kinking. Regardless of your preferred storage method, having tools ready to go in the spring will make those early season chores that much easier.

Have a great Thanksgiving!

Rachael and Tobias

The telltale signs are here. First comes football season. Then the weather is absurdly amazing (we can dream that every autumn always starts out beautiful). Leaves start to fall. It is nearly time to give our landscape beds some attention.

After several hard frosts:

-Cut perennials back to soil level and remove debris.

-Consider which plants performed well and which did not. Make a note of any changes to be made it the spring.

-Remove debris from any annual plantings in the landscape.

-If we have a fall with limited rainfall, give the landscape a deep soak to prevent stress on the plants as they go into winter.

-Add a one inch layer of mulch to help conserve soil moisture and protect the root systems, especially for newly planted landscapes.

Removing debris such as leaves and other dead plant material from the landscape will prevent the spread of certain fungi that can overwinter on dead plant material and then continue to spread and infect new leaf tissue during the following spring. Taking the extra step to remove debris will also eliminate potential nesting areas created by unwanted critters.

You may want to consider leaving ornamental grass, coneflower, and black-eyed susan in the landscape over the winter months. Not only do they add structure and interest to the winter landscape, but they are also a food source for some native birds. If you decide to wait until spring to cut these perennials back, this should be done no later than mid- May to allow for the new growth to emerge.

Enjoy the Fall!

Rachael and Tobias

No centerpiece is as lovely as a vase of freshly cut flowers.  Sure, you can pick up a bunch at most grocery stores, but who knows how long they've been sitting in that tub of water.  Wouldn't it be great to be able to walk into your own garden and cut a beautiful bouquet?  Here's how...

Site Selection: Choose a site with well-drained soil, plenty of sun and easy access to water. Prepare the soil by clearing the garden area of grass and weeds. Work organic matter, such as compost, into the soil.

Plant Selection: Decide on a color palette. It is best to include plants with different textures and of different sizes. Don’t forget the greens! Add foliage plants for color and texture.

Harvesting the Flowers: Harvest flowers in the morning if possible. Cool air is better than hot afternoon sun for preserving fresh flowers. Use sharp scissors or cutting shears. If possible, choose flower stalks with a few buds that have not yet opened to prolong the life of your arrangement. Once you harvest your flowers, it is a good idea to give each stem a fresh cut just before placing them in the vase. It is best to make the fresh cut under running water to prevent air bubbles from getting into the vascular system of the stem and blocking water uptake. Cutting the stems at an angle will help them absorb more water. Remove any foliage that will be below the water line and place in warm water.

Caring for your Arrangement: The arrangement should be placed in a cool location, away from heat sources such as direct sunlight from a window, an oven, a heat vent, etc. The cooler the temperatures, the longer your bouquet will stay fresh. Using a floral preservative solution similar to the packets that come with flower arrangements can also help prolong the life of your arrangement. It is important to keep the water free from any leaves or plant material. Decaying plant material will clog the vascular system of the flower stems and cause them to wilt very quickly. Keep an eye on the water level of the vase. Fresh cut flowers can take up water at a surprisingly fast rate. Refill the vase before it runs out of water.

Common Cut-Flower Plants:                                                                                                                      Primary flowers: sunflowers, gerbera daisies, spider mums, roses, hydrangea, lilies.                                                                                                       Accent flowers: alstromeria, delphinium, mini carnations, larkspur, asters, gladiolus, goldenrod.                                                                                        Greenery: Lamb’s Ear, lavender, Bells of Ireland, ornamental grass.

Enjoy your cut flowers!

Rachael and Tobias

Ouch! Just like when you are pinched, pinching plant material is done by using your thumb and forefinger. In this case, it doesn’t hurt. A clean, sharp pair of hand pruners will also work. You can either pinch off just the new leaves or you can take off several inches. Both will encourage branching. Most herbs are grown for their foliage. By increasing branching you will increase leaf production, making the plant more productive for you.

By pinching off the flowers on a young annual, you will encourage the plant to develop a better root system. This will lead to a healthier plant that is more drought tolerant and disease and insect resistant. Pinching of annuals is usually done very early in the season by growers when the plants are still growing in the greenhouses. However, if you are growing annuals from seed, you may want to pinch off the first several flower buds.

Pinching back perennials such as mums and asters will increase branching and flower production, making it a more compact, attractive plant. Asters and mums can both be pinched back several times before July 4^th, or they can simply be cut in half around early June and will still flower in the fall. Beebalm is another perennial that will benefit from pinching. It can be cut back by one half in early to mid- May to encourage a more compact, full shape. This will delay the bloom period, but only by a week or two. ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum is another perennial that will appreciate some pinching. This plant tends to flop over quite readily before its flowers open. By pinching back before July 4^th, you will help the plant to stay standing throughout the season.

Other plants that benefit from pinching: Herbs such as basil and rosemary will increase branching and leaf production after pinching. Some perennials that will benefit from pinching include chrysanthemum, tall garden phlox, yarrow, and Russian sage.

Not all plants will appreciate pinching. Leave columbine, astilbe, delphinium, daylily, coral bell, hosta, iris, foxglove and dianthus to their own devices and they will be fine.

Have a great day in the garden and don’t forget the sunscreen!

Rachael and Tobias

After several years, some ornamental grasses have a tendency to thin or die out in the middle or outgrow their space. When this begins to happen, it is best to split the grass into two or more clumps. The best time of the year to split grasses is early spring as growing conditions such as soil temperature, sunlight and precipitation are optimal for successful transplantation and regrowth.

Before you begin, think ahead to cleanup and transplant. Tie off the plant every eight to ten inches so the debris is easily gathered for disposal. Prepare the transplant sites by digging holes and adding appropriate soil amenities such as compost and fertilizer. Trim the grass to a height of four to five inches. Dig around the entire plant with a shovel and pry it out of the ground. Once you have the plant out of the ground, lay it on its side. Next, determine the number of clumps you need or want. Using a sharp shovel or hand saw, divide the plant into the desired amount of clumps. Replant one clump back in the original spot and plant the other clumps in the prepared locations, making sure the crown of the plants are at or slightly above ground level. Water in thoroughly and cover with about three inches of mulch.

If splitting produces more grass clumps than you need, share the plant with family, friends, neighbors and coworkers. To maintain plant viability, the roots should be covered with soil and kept moist until replanted.

If you’re looking for another spring project, check out our May newsletter’s DIY section on planting spring bulbs. A small investment in time and bulbs now will yield beautiful benefits this summer.

Happy planting!

Rachael and Tobias

What can you say about a spring that has yet to arrive? Sure the grass is green, there are buds on the trees and shrubs, and birds are making nests at the angle of the house and downspout (I have three trees in my yard; you think they could find one of them). The temperatures, on the other hand, are hardly something in which you can revel. You are probably wondering where I am going with this. The cool season grasses - Kentucky blue, the fescue and rye - thrive in the cooler seasons of the year, typically now into June and again in the fall. I encourage you to enjoy the experience. I also urge you to be thinking about those months in between when heat and humidity take the measure of these same grasses. Last season’s experience led us to rethink our typical advice on dealing with fungus in turf.

While we can’t control temperature and humidity, we can do some things to minimize their effect on your turf. Healthy, dense turf withstands most adverse occurrences better than turf that is not so healthy. That is always the first thing we aim for. If you have a lawn that is on the thin side, overseeding is a must until it thickens up.

A well-aerated turf resists disease better. We recommend aerating twice a year.

Pay attention to irrigation amounts and timing. Right now, we are getting more than adequate moisture for turf. As the seasons change, so do rainfall amounts; there is a tendency to overwater. There is no hard and fast rule as to the number of times per week or the number of minutes per zone. It is all about how your turf absorbs the water at the root zone. On slopes, longer irrigation times lead to run-off; break your irrigation into shorter cycles to maximize absorption and minimize run-off. Morning is always the best time for watering turf. Winds are calmer, and the turf canopy has the chance to dry out during the rest of the day.

We never tire of reminding you about keeping you mower blades sharp. We want to cut the grass, not beat it into submission. Disease is more likely to enter a plant through a grass leaf with a ragged edge. We also believe in leaving the clippings where they fall; bagging removes nutrients that you have paid for. The only time you should bag is when you have an active disease process in your turf. Frequency is also important. Turf growth determines when you mow, not trash pick-up. Mow so that you never remove more than one third of the crown at any one mowing. When turf is growing more rapidly, you mow more frequently.

That brings me to fungicides. As a rule, most disease outbreaks end in recovery in the fall with cooler, drier weather. Last year, the rule was broken. We have done a great deal of overseeding since last fall to repair damaged turf. We have fungicides available. We will look for the appearance of disease as the seasons progress, and we will offer you the option of treating or not.

Call or email us with your questions. Check our website, blog and Facebook page for more information about how we help you care for your turf.